Runway Bonanza Part 2: Christopher Kane

Each time Christopher Kane comes out with a new collection, I'm more convinced he's a mega genius. The best high-concept collections are those that are pure theatrics or high art on the runway but that actually contain wearable pieces if you look hard enough, and this is what Kane is so good at. His Spring 2010 collection's running theme was gingham, and although there were certainly dresses that would be difficult for the average person pull off no matter how they styled it, they were always followed by a variation on the theme that was extremely wearable. Example:


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You get what he's doing: the shape and print is little-girl cutesy but the bra cups and sheer panel are not. The idea is smart, but only a handful of too-cool-for-you-and-conveniently-rich girls will buy it. That look was followed by this one:


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You don't even have to imagine these pieces with other things to be able to see it in your own life: you could wear it as shown on the runway and look great. The cardigan is an easy sell, as is the bustier top, but the skirt is the real winner. Here's a closer look.


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You don't have a skirt like that in your closet yet, but it's easy to imagine it there! The panel over the hips and down on the sides coupled with the pleated panels create a new version of a trumpet skirt: it's both inventive and highly flattering.

All the knits in this collection should be favorites in stores. They are just special enough to warrant busting out the credit card, but they're not so trendy that you won't get a couple seasons out of them. This was one of my favorites:


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The back is even better:


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If exposing that much skin to the elements in the winter months doesn't seem rational, Kane showed a similar sweater over a tailored oxford that also looked great.

Continuing with his girlish theme, Kane's eveningwear choices were ice dancer inspired. I know, it sounds like something only waifish teen could pull off successfully, but somehow Kane made it more universal.


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It's not unlikely that the slits in the skirt will be half that length when this dress hits stores. Even without that minor change, it's easy to picture a 30+ woman in it. Kane ties the skater sequins in with the gingham quite nicely with this look:


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100% wearable but still quietly subversive. And the skirt is a shoo-in for a day-to-night look. Mr. Kane, you're my hero.

Runway Bonanza Part 1: J.Mendel

In the interest of starting things off on the right foot, my first few posts will review my favorite Spring 2010 collections. First up: J.Mendel.

J.Mendel is a perennial favorite of mine. Giles Mendel, the furrier/ready-to-wear label's current head designer, obviously knows how to work a pelt but he also reliably turns out subtly interesting sportswear. And that's not even mentioning the gorgeous evening gowns. Spring 2010 was no exception: Giles had me from the first look, this palest-pink mini dress.


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The little gathers at the front side of the waist are lovely, creating a subtle, petal-like shape through the hip. Up top, the asymmetric, overlapping straps and the shape of the tank-ish bodice looks to me like a clever take on the sporty trend this season. It's not overt, of course, but there's some structure there that hints at scuba gear. I thought Mendel's later experiments in what appear to be some kind of panne velvet (or another fabric printed to look like) were successful as well. His tricks with jacket cuts were also nice. Here is one such jacket in the velvet:


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You might have to squint to see it on your computer screen, but there's a panel starting at the sleeve in the body of the jacket extending down to the hem and possibly becoming pockets. It's hard to tell on the already waif-y model, but it's bound to be a flattering detail.

The only complaint I could make about this collection were the boring (or maybe it's just me that is sick of them) oversized chiffon rosettes on much of the eveningwear. However, this will almost certainly be a hit with his clients, so you can't really fault Mendel for their inclusion. Two other eveningwear pieces were just dreamy and more than made up for the played-out rosettes:






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They're simple and nothing new in terms of cut, sure, but the two-tone chiffon looks fresh and I'm a total sucker for acid yellow, in spite of how difficult it is to wear. Hopefully, starlets will opt for one of these for red carpet events this year. It's a little obvious considering her role on Mad Men and the retro cut, but can't you just picture January Jones in the blue one?

I have to end with this little sheath. I think it's perfect. You could play it sleek, punky, or pretty, and it would be a knockout each time. Want.


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