As a disclaimer, let me say that these are based mainly on hunches and what little can be gleaned from the Pre-Fall 2010 shows that are starting to surface. I have no insider knowledge of what any designer is planning for fall. However, I will explain why I think each of the trends I have picked are likely.
1. Chinoiserie/Japonisme. This is perhaps the most obvious and bankable of the trends for fall. For Karl Lagerfeld, his Far East-inspired Pre-Fall collection was derived from the brand new Chanel boutique that has just opened in Shanghai. With a video series highlighting the collection's development, a line of exclusive products only sold in the Shanghai boutique, and an interesting though somewhat painful to watch short film (see it all at Chanel's "Paris-Shanghai" website), the folks at Chanel are doing their best to create a lot of buzz. It's a Lagerfeld line we're talking about, so the buzz would have likely been there anyway.
Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).
Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).
But I wouldn't predict a trend wholly on what boils down to a business decision on Chanel's part to expand in China. Versace's pre-fall collection featured references to Japanese pop culture, and with great success. Hopefully Donatella will revisit this reference for fall, as it seems to mesh well with the Versace look.
Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).
Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).
A few kimono-style dresses and blouses and the occasional obi-like belt also popped up here and there on the Spring runways, which may indicate designer interest heading east.
Bottega Veneta. Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).
Marchesa. Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).
Maybe most convincingly, a dose of Chinoiserie/Japonisme just makes sense right now. Historically, the East-through-the-lens-of-the-West look means high glamor and exotic escapism. Although the economy seems to be slowly improving, a little old school glamor might still be what women will be looking for come fall. Lastly, Chinoiserie links with the next trend I'm predicting...
2. The Thirties. I think the 1930s will be present in Fall 2010 collections on two separate fronts: in silhouette and in detail. The silhouette of the thirties--slim, longer hemlines, full shoulder--is right at the moment. A lot of women are (or will soon be) tired of the tricky cuts and volume that have been on runways for the past few seasons. The body-con cuts on so many Spring runways are an indicator of that. Also, while I agree that the '80s trend may very well be on its way out (here is Tommy Ton's feature on the subject at Style.com), I think a full shoulder will be around awhile longer. This could easily translate to a 1970s revival as it did in some of the jackets at Stella McCartney's Spring 2010 show, but in many ways the look and silhouette of the '70s owe a lot to the 1930s (ahem, Biba).
The novelty prints and details of the 1930s, often derived from the work of Surrealists like Dali and Duchamp, are also likely to pop up this fall. Elsa Schiaparelli is my official vote for "Most Likely Historic Designer to be Referenced in Show Notes" next season. Zac Posen used hand and mouth motifs on jewelry and shoes for Spring, two shapes used by Schiap:
Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).
For Pre-Fall, Posen again referenced the thirties, this time with bold plaids and novelty prints of bunnies, swans, and mushrooms. In fact, Posen's Pre-Fall collection may be the best example I can provide of the fine line between the 1930s and 1970s look:
Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).
Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).
Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).
Several other designers presented bold prints reminiscent of the '30s and/or Surrealism this spring. I talked about the childlike prints at Miu Miu in a previous post, but here are some other examples:
Dries Van Noten. Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).
Temperly. Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).
I think we'll continue to see the 1930s referenced as Pre-Fall and Fall collections are presented.
Stay tuned for future Fall 2010 trend forecasts!
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