Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Runway Bonanza Part 4: Salvatore Ferragamo

Of all the collections that made the top of my favorites list this season, the Salvatore Ferragamo show surprised me the most. I couldn't recall a time in the recent past that I was wowed by the brand's runway offerings, but after checking out their Spring 2010 show I began to look forward to seeing their next collection. Then I read the Style.com review, explaining that their creative director Christina Oritz has been fired and that this was her last season at Ferragamo. Just my luck.

The review was relatively positive but wrapped up by saying that the collection was "in the end...a case of too little, too late" (click here to read the whole review). Since I couldn't remember them, I checked out Oritz's other four collections for Ferragamo. Her first two were maybe not as bad as the scathing reviews she received made them out to be, but they were nothing inspiring. The main complaint critics had was certainly valid: Oritz took this blue chip brand waaaaay too sexy. However, for Fall 2009, Oritz presented a knockout collection that featured very smart, clever cuts in luxe colors and fabrics. A few of my favorites:


Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).


Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).


Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).


Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).

Sexy, sure, but this time it was also polished. Still, Oritz must have some compulsive attraction to obscene amounts of skin, as her final looks consisted of totally transparent sweaters and great-looking evening skirts (which were, of course, easy to miss).

For Spring, the designer brightened up the palette but still showed sophisticated pieces that seem to hit that just-special-enough-without-being-silly mark. I especially loved the simple, loosely-fitted dresses shown with the type of tight, transparent, crew-necks that gave Oritz so much trouble in previous seasons.


Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).


Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).

The outerwear was also great. I'm usually suspicious of short sleeved coats (when do you wear a short sleeved coat?), but this one looks great:


Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).

The length of the sleeves and the fact that it appears to be a lightweight leather is what makes this look good and seem practical. In early Spring it can go over a sweater on a chilly or rainy day, but later it can top lighter blouses or dresses. I also love the tiny slits throughout: they give the piece an edge. The red coat below, also in that light leather but with trench-coat details and a lowered waist, might be a harder sell because of its lack of shape, but it still looks fantastic on the runway:


Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).

The last handful of items in a much darker palette had an almost medieval flavor, which may in fact turn out to be a trend when the Fall 2010 shows start. This section contained the items I myself would most want to wear.


Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).


Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).


Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).


Photo from Style.com (click the image to visit the source).

I can't deny that there were clunkers: the strange jodhpurs were on the right track but totally missed. Also, the looks weren't quite as cohesive as they might have been. The end of the show looked a bit detached from the beginning, although if you were to evaluate them individually, I think they would be successful.

***

It seems unfair that Christina Oritz showed two bad collections, appeared to have heeded the criticism she received, followed those with two very good collections, and still got fired. You can understand Ferragamo's reasons: this is a recession and Oritz alienated the customer base with her first two shows. No matter what she showed next, certain fans might have just tuned out until she was replaced. Additionally, although judged simply as collections her last two seasons were fantastic, they were still probably racier than the Salvatore Ferragamo regular would like. It would futile to try to eradicate the all the skin from Ortiz's clearly sexy style completely. The good news is that things ended on a positive note. Oritz shouldn't be unemployed for long.

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